Right skin and hair care on a surf trip2 August, 2016
How to preserve the environment as a surfer5 September, 2016
The alarm is ringing and it’s still completely dark outside. Aaaah, just 5 more minutes, please! But the surf forecast is amazing, especially for the early morning hours. So let’s get out of the comfortably warm bed, get dressed quickly and prepare a coffee. Afterwards I check if nothing of the important stuff for the upcoming surf session is missing: Board: check! Leash: check! Wax: check! Wetsuit: check! Towel: check! Sun screen: check! Perfect, everything there, nothing’s left behind. I just finish my coffee, store everything in respectively on top of the car and here we go.
No surf trip would be complete without a good music playlist for getting into the right mood for a relaxed early bird morning session. Music: check! The only thing still missing is my surf buddy. Surfing alone can be pretty awesome, but together with a buddy it’s normally even more fun. Besides, one can look out for the other one – especially when you go surfing early in the morning and there are no other surfers out there in the line-up. Therefore I make a short detour to pick up my surf buddy. Surf buddy: check!
Ok, now we’re definitely ready to go. We arrive at the surf spot we aimed for at the crack of dawn. Slowly, our surroundings start looming in a shadowy fashion and the first rays of light can be sensed at the horizon. Very important, also at an early birdy surf session: the spot check! Therefore we’re watching the waves for some time while we’re drinking our coffee out of a thermos jug. Oh, there’s a set coming – perfect height, slightly off-shore wind and no recognizable dangerous currents which could drag us out into the open sea – it couldn’t get much better than that!
So let’s put on the wetsuit, wax the board and go straight into the water. It’s getting brighter and brighter and slowly the sun is raising at the horizon. We’re sitting in the line-up all alone and for one moment, we’re just enjoying this magnificent spectacle in front of us: The sun slowly rises from the ocean and transforms the surface of the water into a marvelous play of colors, consisting of all the different shades of red, orange and gold. We’re listening to the thunderous sound of the breakers in front of us, the seagulls shrieking above our heads, sensing the first rays of light touching our skin and feeling the wind rushing through our hair. Then the next set is coming, one wave even more perfect than the one before – and all of them just for us alone.
We’re surfing our hearts out, cheering on each other and sharing each others happiness when one of us is having a good ride on a wave. Slowly, the line-up is filling with more and more wave-hungry surfers. But we don’t care – we’re paddling back to the shore, for the moment our hunger for waves is satisfied. So we’re sitting on the beach, thinking about this incredible surf session and already are looking forward to the next magical early bird surf session.