Your first wave: takeoff29 March, 2013
Your first wetsuit21 April, 2013
Wow, so far this already feels pretty awesome, doesn’t it? Doesn’t matter you were all washed up by the first couple of waves. Every beginning is hard and it’s totally worth the adrenalin to try it a hundred times more and fail. Cause once you eventually make it, you’re hooked forever – surfing will become a substantial part of your life. However, besides day- and weeklong trial and error, also good advice is king – so here it comes!
One thing first: Good conditions are a rare event, especially in summer. But with some luck you get a day like I had two years ago at Atlantik Surf. Last day of my vacation, perfect waves, well trained – what else do you want? Good waves make everything easier. You can judge them easier, you have more time for your takeoff, and they are much more forgiving than any steep beachbreak for example. So when you s actually made it to start gliding in the upper third of the wave after several failed attempts and then to do the takeoff, a whole new dimension of fun just entered your life!
Now what’s important is to take the right direction, away from the lip. Of course already checked out the waves direction lying on your board looking behind you before the takeoff. You go into a certain direction by turning your head to where you want to go already shortly before the takeoff and then shift your weight accordingly just a little bit. If you managed to perform a clean takeoff, keep on leaning into the same direction in order to surf away from the breaking part of the wave. Tadaaa – your first parallel ride!! Now play around with the wave a little, lean forwards and backwards a little to take up speed or slow down. For the start it’s already an awesome feeling just to ride an unbroken wave, so also enjoy just that 🙂
Ahhh – ok, before I get to enthused I better stop here ^^ Next time more!